It's a good idea to familiarize yourself with your well system, since this is the source of your drinking water.
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Casing: The casing is a tube in the ground that houses the well pump and the pipe that moves water from the pump to the surface. It also prevents the hole from collapsing, and keeps contaminants from entering the water supply. Modern well casings are typically 5" plastic (PVC) pipe.
Cap: The cap is the top of the well casing. The cap usually has a screened vent to prevent insects from entering the well. The cap also keeps rainwater and small animals from getting into the well.
Pump: The well pump draws water up the hole and pushes it into the home. The well pump is usually submersible. This means the pump is installed in the well casing several feet below ground, making it operate more quietly.
Pressure Tank: The pressure tank is usually a 3-4 foot tall cylinder located in the home. It stores water and distributes it through the home at an even pressure. The tank can also serve as additional storage for low-yield wells. The pressure switch located at the tank controls the pumps on/off cycle.
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Pitless Adapter: The pitless adapter is a plumbing fitting that attaches to the well casing and routes the water supply line from the pump to the home. It is installed approximately 4 below ground so it is not subject to freezing. Before these were invented, old wells often terminated below ground in pits, or basement off-sets. Pits are no longer necessary, hence the name pitless adapter.
Screen: The screen is at the very bottom of the well, attached to the casing. It keeps sand and gravel out of the well while allowing groundwater to flow into the well. Some wells drilled into bedrock do not need screens since the water travels through crevices in the rock, and there is no sand to filter out.
Wellhead: The part of the well that is above ground. The cap covers the wellhead. The top of the wellhead should be at least 12 inches above the ground.
O-fitting's reply may be somewhat confusing or misleading.
Let's clarify:
You stated:
"PVC water piping throughout. These pipes are used for hot and cold water."
and you wondered if that was ok.
And then O-fitting's reply that
"PVC for water supply is OK no worry."
Let's clarify that:
PVC is NOT allowed INSIDE of the house for hot/cold drinking water.
Period.
In many areas of the U.S. PVC is allowed as the "supply" TO the house.
That is when:
for cold water only, underground (buried), not under the house but outside of the house.
PVC and CPVC can and are confused many times by novices.
If the pipe says PVC on it, then it is NOT legal for hot and cold water "throughout the house."
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To answer part of the question about health risks with PVC (or CPVC for that matter).
In general, today, most believe it to be safe........ but there is some controversy regarding that (as well as with the solvents/primers).
Some say that all plastics are unhealthy. Most say that they are perfectly fine.
Others say that dioxins are a byproduct of the manufacturing of PVC. and therefor that PVC ought not to be manufactured
PVC is Poly-Vinyl-Chloride and both of those ingredients are somewhat controversial.
We give plumbing advice and frankly don't want to get into debates about plastic health issues as there is no definitive answer currently.
Do recognize that copper in large doses is considered toxic by all, including the EPA, and so when piping very aggressive water through copper pipes the water can leach out large amounts of copper.
What is the "best" piping to use for potable water?
Good question and there is no definitive answer except to never use PVC for hot water or copper piping for very aggressive and low pH water.
All plumbing codes that I am aware of will not allow PVC (no matter how thick or pressure rated) to be used INSIDE of homes for potable water.
Check the pipes, I'm guessing they are CPVC and not PVC.
Vic
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